Yulia Magdych: “People need to understand that creative work must also be paid”
On the Day embroidered on the channel “Ukraine” will be the draw of our shirts from Julia Magdych
Ukraine is gradually beginning to weaken quarantine. Next week in Kiev will work underground, will restore public transport and major shopping center. The next step is the opening up of international air services, concerts and other mass events.
While all of this is prohibited. Because of the coronavirus pandemic, and quarantine will be held and a Grand “ВышиванкаDAY” in Kiev on the Day of embroidery, which this year Ukraine celebrates the 21st of may. Last year at the Postal square in the centre of the capital, showing of embroidery from the famous Ukrainian designer Julia Magdych together with the TV channel “Ukraine” and “news Today” has collected a full house of spectators. What will happen this year, as the pandemic and quarantine affected small and medium businesses and how to help artists, who actually remained without a piece of bread, the site “Today” for the project SmartTalk personally asked Julia Magdych.
Interview with Yulia Magdych – watch the video:
We speak on the eve of the shirts, which Ukraine will celebrate on may 21. You must have a lot of work?
There is such a moment. Write various videos, interviews, prepare a small presentation photoformable Day embroidered. In short, try to do everything possible and impossible in conditions of quarantine.
The opportunity to sleep though there?
Of course. But today, unfortunately, failed.
Last year in Kyiv at Poshtova square by the TV channel “Ukraine” and the news “Today” together, held a Grand show of “ВышиванкаDAY”, which could join to attend. If not, the epidemic is coronavirus and the quarantine that it would be this year? What were the plans?
We believed that after all can make “ВышиванкаDAY” to slightly raise the people’s spirits. Expected that the quarantine will end a little early. I want the colors to see other people with them something to enjoy. But recently I realized that, unfortunately, show will not succeed. Didn’t work out as hoped. However, something still will. In particular, a flash mob with the stars. But, most importantly, on the TV channel “Ukraine” will draw our shirts. So that all can participate and maybe some of our viewers are lucky.
Overall, I think that many designers are now trying to do digital screenings. To be honest, time is right and this is encouraged. Coronavirus it all sped up a little and squeezed us. We understand that we need to do digital impressions, because it is not the fact that it will take fashion week in Paris, Milan, new York, in connection with that restricted movement and communication.
The borders are closed everywhere, not going anywhere. How are You personally affected by the quarantine and pandemic? Reduced sales? You are right: the coronavirus have prompted all of us once more to go online. But the fashion industry is a special thing. Not coming, nothing is dead, will not feel a thing on the touch…
Of course, we are very much feeling the effects of the quarantine not only in sales but also in the organization of work. Our masters live in different parts of Kiev, so to get to work hard. Work for our masters we made as safe as possible. People come out one by one. You know, things have moved online before the quarantine. Therefore, we have become accustomed to online sales and online communication. We understand what is necessary to give a product that it is well to go online. For example, give the dress one size that fits all and can be safely ordered online because it is universal.
Many designers are now trying to do digital screenings. To be honest, time is right and this is pushed
I think that all entrepreneurs in Ukraine were waiting for, will we have the tax breaks, any kind of support business. Unfortunately, we see that this is not happening. In Ukraine in quarantine appeared an extra million unemployed. I think there will be more. Many Ukrainian brands will cease to exist at all. So the fashion and creative economy is a very costly business, because it is visual. In order to create a good visual image, it is necessary to spend huge budgets. And when this fancy car stops at least two or three months, for small and medium businesses it is very noticeable. The average business can be small, and small – to disappear in General.
Besides just business, You popularize the Ukrainian and Ukraine as a state abroad. Let’s talk about the culture and artists in our time. Nobody says that due to the complete lockdown they actually remained without a piece of bread. Canceled all public events, concerts…
The issue is quite complicated. It’s not as easy as to go online with the sale of dresses. Now a lot of stars started making online concerts. Of course, they are free.
But it’s not monetized…
So I think that it would be good to create a platform that could monetize and unite artists. Because assistance from the government I don’t expect that. Therefore, cultural workers must realize that need to create some new, alternative business model, which corresponds to the present time. Of course, you can go to YouTube, monetized, you can write songs that will be purchased in iTunes is all valid. But it’s not the speed – it’s not a concert. A theater troupe? How they can monetize when the theatres and so did not have much budget?
Fashion and the creative economy – this is a very expensive business, because it is visual
I don’t see a way out, in addition to creating some new cultural platforms, including for the sale of a painting, online concerts… for example, Celentano. I liked the way he once did a concert where each ticket cost one Euro. Crammed an incredible amount of people. He wanted his music has become more accessible. But not for free. I think such initiatives are very good, and people need to understand that creative work should pay and what they can touch hands. Remember when you were pirate copies, the disc was sold, the booths were, I was very upset. I was genuinely painful because it is stealing someone else’s work.
Yes, notions of copyright, we almost there.
And if protected, the Creator must spend all their profits on lawyers.
That and nerves, and time. And time is money.
So our legislators during quarantine for the creative people need to create a proper legislation that would protect us.
Designer embroidery Yulia Magdych/from the personal archive
You’ve probably seen how social media reacted to the protest of Ukrainian cultural figures who literally flashed light beams the sky above Kiev. Some condemned it, while others supported it. Which side are you on?
Of course, I support them. How can you not support it? Many people say that now we weaken quarantine and will the second wave of infections. It seems to me that our state simply cannot afford the quarantine.
And if your hands had such authority, like Zelensky, what would be done and improved?
It’s like Baron Munchausen who got himself out of the situation no other way. You need to create the right climate for entrepreneurs. For example, we recently counted the creation of a single production, not for the fashion in Riga. Let’s take a notional figure – the production is worth a million. Here you have it built, and 600 thousand you immediately state returns. Such conditions exist in many countries. Creating a climate for entrepreneurs to come, create jobs, they are given tax holidays, the tax does not go to the young entrepreneurs to visit, they give a turn to work and realize themselves. On the loans in our state, too, will not work with these interest rates.
In fact, we state hold for entrepreneurs
I can tell you that all of the revolution rested on the entrepreneurs, now all the equipment, all the help the doctors give entrepreneurs. Everything that comes from the state, it just “evaporates” in an unknown direction. And entrepreneurs help. While in full pay taxes, and for what they pay, get broken roads, lack of medicine and education. This is my personal point of view. She might be a bit biased, I’m also an entrepreneur.
The trend in the journey of the artists, actors and cultural figures in politics continues. Never really thought about it?
It is an obvious trend. Now the most expensive policy is awareness. If your face know you know they will vote for you. Conventionally, the Bob Pupkova, which was built ten plants, and the TV was not do not know him and will not vote for him. So this is a sin not to take advantage of people with his awareness go into politics. In this case, I always suggest to pay attention to what man has created in my life.
What is the added value…
Man is the result of his work. I really like how it was described by Antoine de Saint-Exupery in “the Citadel”. There he wrote well about the masters that make the carpet: the wizard dies, and the carpet remains – is he in the carpet. So we remain in what we do. When the result is only publicity, of course, that this person is not able to create a system, organization, to build a certain hierarchical relationships. He will be in politics, but the big question is what he will do?
With its principles that I have in life, I am not yet ready to enter politics. To date, I do not see, with whom you can work
You never offered?
I thought about it, I had offers. You know what was the quota for women. Now still trying it’s gender equality…
… to balance.
Yeah, I’m not talking about how to align. But I understand that with your principles that I have in life, I’m not ready to do it. To date, I do not see, with whom you can work. You may change the political system of our country, then I’m ready to fight.
How many people work in Your business? Because of the quarantine, many businessmen had to say goodbye to their employees. You managed to save the team?
We have retained the team. Still no one fired. Maybe we there will be some small reductions. But, for example, now we have a girl going on maternity leave. Our entire team consists of 50 people. Plus or minus, because there is seasonal work, when we a couple of people added, or Vice versa. I will try to save the whole team. Let’s see how it goes.
What shows because of the quarantine you off?
First and foremost, I’ve been “ВышиванкаDAY” with the TV channel “Ukraine” and “news Today”. Also we had planned to do the show in the jazz festival in Lviv, which was also postponed for next year. By the way, we offer to arrange the showing, I say, let’s go to fashion week… Already received two offers from different countries. However, I understand that it is very risky story to plan something. We are particularly interested in whether it is fashion week in Paris, because there we usually do showroom, it is best to go online. Showrooms and shows are a very costly part of the business. And if everything goes online, it will enable us greatly to reformat the business with a plus sign. More profitable for us to work online, rather than Vice versa.
Yulia Magdych, ВышиванкаDAY-2019
Probably, all the ladies signed up for Your Instagram. I’ve seen models in embroidered shirts and dresses from Julia Magdych posing somewhere in Venice. It was just a photo shoot away or did you set up the screenings?
It was an away shoot. We shot two lookbook. One-on-Burano – a small island just off Venice. They are known for its lace and coloured houses. By the way, where are the houses there? Mainly sailors returned home in a very drunken state, and in order to find out where someone lives, their homes were painted in different bright colors. Don’t know whether it’s true or not, but the legend is cool. And the second, more romantic lookbook, shot in Venice. In fashion we all shoot for six months before… that we imagine in the spring, remove in the fall. That is, in Venice, was shot in late August last year. Why do people in the photos no? Often subscribers ask this question…
Dispersed all just…
First, we shot in the morning. Second, there is photoshop, we slightly cut people out of frame. But it turned out quite effectively. Because the Studio already tired to remove, I want rich architecture, the picture changes. By the way, we just shot, because soon Venice severely flooded.
Who helps and inspires the new collection? As far as I know, Your mother embroiders. It’s a family tradition?
Family business… just Kidding. Mother was actually embroidered when I was little. She now runs a business and there’s no time. On the other hand, I embroider for her. She has such a big collection of my dresses, I don’t have one.
In the first place, what inspires me is the story. I love history, historical books: there are characters that capture me with their character, strong-willed qualities. For such people I would like to create clothes. And I imagine that would wear a person if he lived in our time. Here thus comes the inspiration. And love flowers. I have almost all the colors. If I give, or I see beautiful flowers, I try to transfer it on the fabric. But all this occurs very spontaneously. On the one hand, it’s a business, and on the other – creativity and creative industry. It’s hard when you yourself unite and businessman, and a creative person. You may want to sit and something to draw, and you have calls that you must answer. You can’t just turn the phone off. But I have practiced when I go somewhere on vacation, completely turn my phone off for 3-4 days and no social networks.
You have good will power.
It’s so reloads… Actually, I believe that soon will come the new fashion is to go without a phone. And I definitely want to try this.
It’s hard when you yourself unite and businessman, and a creative person. You may want to sit and something to draw, and you have calls that you must answer.
What’s the biggest bouquet in the life you gave the men? For example, 101 the rose…
It was worse. My favorite holiday is Easter. It was still at the Institute. At Easter, I brought the whole Ball of flowers. And I understood that this man, like the song Pugacheva, not last money, and all the flowers that were there, I brought. I then was a little porndrive because there was not enough space in the apartment. Such things are remembered. What man is willing for you to sacrifice everything.
You agree that shirts have become popular only after the revolution of Dignity in 2013-2014?
Unfortunately, I agree. In Lviv, we went to the national costumes. Arrived in Kiev, I remember, wore a shirt to the disco. I had such fashionable “ripped” jeans and embroidery. For me, people openly pointed fingers. No one understood why I came, maybe I’m a animator and I will be here now to show some fire show. Not always people were willing at that time to be a visual manifestation of the Ukrainian culture. During the revolution of Dignity it has somehow brought us together. And we must not forget that, for example, during the Orange revolution was the orange flags. The revolution of Dignity, too, had to have its own visual symbol. Here is the embroidery and it was. Indeed, this wave, thank God, went. For example, a beret and a croissant we associate with France. Let the embroidery associated with Ukraine. That’s our thing, and we should use it.
Have You studied the history of Ukrainian embroidery? The idea was to create a historical collection?
By the way, it’s a good idea. This idea was not, I have it planted. Of course, I want to do it, but with a slightly different approach. Fashion, like any art, should reflect the times in which we live. Many companies and designers just take an old embroidery to zero copy it and then say it’s their collection. To do a replica of the old embroidery? In this art and does not smell. I would like to show ancient times, regionality, because embroidery was too much.
Do You have in the wardrobe of vintage embroidery?
There are many. I collected them before I started my own business. I have quite a collection of different – and beaded embroidered, and the ones that grandmother gave. There are old jars that my great-grandmother was still doing. I loved to wear vintage things until I one day my mother said, “Julia, what if someone died?”.
I could not help but notice that some Ukrainian producers are copying Your style, designs and embroidery. However, there are such dresses, of course, much cheaper. What do you think? And in General in our country can be protected by copyright?
I am extremely negative. I’d kill them all, frankly (laughs). First, they copy it all poor quality, so it will not have this kind of dress as we do. Secondly, you really need to understand that this is intellectual property, which is today in Ukraine we can not protect. Well, if giants such as Louis Vuitton and Dolce & Gabbana, are unable to protect themselves from fraud, how can we do? We forged not only in Ukraine: Kuwait, Qatar, India, USA, long list.
By the way, I every week send a link to the new Ukrainian company that forges us. Sometimes several a day. To control it was simply impossible. And they are so arrogant that when my staff call them and ask to remove the pictures (they use our images for which we have rights, we can sue you), they refuse. This is my first insults as an artist. You sit on it work at night paint – it’s a very long process. Collection you are actually doing two months from morning to night.
But in the mass market you go from the first day.
What I do is actually “heavy” Suite. We made a cheap alternative collection, however, it does not got such popularity. But when people look at what we are wearing, they actually want such a dress but it cost very cheap. But this is impossible, because there is a certain amount of embroidery and the working time required for this process. And I would love to have formed a price lower if it was possible with the amount of work and, in fact, handmade.
Do You have many foreign clients? Maybe there are some world famous celebrity?
I have mainly customers from abroad. From the past – Catherine Zeta-Jones put on us. Can boast that last week we WatsApp corresponded with a Princess from the Arab countries that we have ordered two dresses. Quite a lot of foreign bloggers. And, of course, many of the customers we can’t name. But, you see, from time to time someone shows up in our dresses, and journalists write about it.
Catherine Zeta-Jones in the embroidery brand Yuliya Magdych
Do You agree with the statement that a strong, successful and independent woman is very difficult to find a soul mate?
People are all different. What do you mean a strong woman? A strong character? Strong in business? Strong at home? A tyrant? Who is this strong woman?
For example, in business and in nature?
Each person finds a partner, which it harmonizes. Between people must occur dualization. When a man finds such a pair, all the questions, was it too strong, or too high are eliminated. I believe in love, know that love exists and not believe that there is some meaning to pick up a person for some characteristics or criteria. That is, it should still be a feeling that not paying attention to what you are. You either love what you are or not. And you do not do this.
Just in Ukraine there is a stereotype that many women, even very beautiful, but few men, so women sometimes have to compete among themselves.
Such a stereotype is. I think that is denominated by women themselves in our country, agree to any relationship and that I don’t like, very often, compromise. This stereotype, which you have voiced and which is very common in our society, it actually gave rise to women by their behavior. Because if you go to Europe there’s a beautiful woman in a beautiful dress and manicure – it is just a fantastic thing. But, first, in Europe there is no age difference in marriages. Very interesting, they believe that there should be little difference. If people get married for the second time, the man could be 55 years old, wife 55, and that’s fine. And in General, the average age for marriage in Europe is 34-36 years. Because people make career.
I believe in love, know that love exists and not believe that there is some meaning to pick up a person for some characteristics or criteria
You said about strong women… If the woman takes on herself and pulls on the cart, it will pull your whole life. And, basically, if the woman in the relationship is ready to be a woman, it is and will be. You know, I very often see women are very dependent. A woman should be independent. My mother taught from childhood that you have to be independent. When a woman has a business of his life, her eyes burning, she interesting, she becomes cool, it wants to go, it wants to expand and read the woman. And this independence, this negates the stereotype just because a woman is burning, it is interesting.
You now learn in graduate school? Why we decided to continue training?
Understand fashion is a business, it has a very clear framework. On the one hand, this is a business that gives you all the touch of fun, a very strong visual enjoyment. On the other, is the one business that does not grow intellectually. Because everything you create is actually a visual product. I would really like to develop versatile, so, in fact, enrolled in graduate school. Maybe after some time will go to teach, why not?
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