The liturgy of the last supper of Diego Guerrero, the chef with two Michelin stars, who officiates at the Madrid restaurant DStage, has been in the making for years. Exactly since Canal Historia contacted him to address the project of recreating the most famous gastronomic meeting in history: the dinner in which Jesus Christ gathered his twelve apostles just before they took him on the Mount of Olives and will begin his ordeal and the path that ended with his death on Golgotha.
This 45-year-old from Vitoria, who has been in Madrid for more than 20 years and is considered one of the great assets of the current gastronomic scene, was finally launched a few months ago to the challenge of imagining a menu inspired by that encounter full of symbols. “In that dinner, what any cook would want was achieved,” Guerrero reflects, “that your food will last forever and ever. It would be the dream of anyone who dedicates himself to gastronomy, which is still an ephemeral art ”. Guerrero paid attention to what the tradition tells about that moment: the kiss of Judas , the lamb, the garum (fish sauce that the Romans consumed), the unleavened bread, the eel, the wine … The process and the result From this culinary journey to a time that changed the world, it can be seen this Friday, March 26, at 10 pm on Canal Historia. Six liturgical dishes in their presentation and modern and focused on the pleasure of the senses in their execution.
Canal Historia, GenteEL PAÍS
Diego Guerrero's path to officiate at DStage, DSpeak and in his laboratory of ideas DSpot, began at age 18 when at the end of COU and Selectividad he had to decide what to do with his life. It was clear to him that he was attracted to occupations in which he could express himself. Fine Arts and Journalism were on his horizon, and Kitchen came and went as a third option: “My parents thought 'this one is going to starve' and a little out of rebellion, I didn't even know if you had to add salt to a hamburger , I jumped right into what my parents thought were the worst choice. And from the beginning I felt comfortable in the middle ”.
Diego Guerrero. Chef, Canal Historia, Gente
Now he is fervently grateful to the kitchen : “It's a tough job but it taught me many values from minute one: the culture of sacrifice and effort, being surrounded by generosity and happiness because when you do something for someone , even if it is a simple salad, you want me to enjoy ”. Guerrero transmits passion for his work and joy for doing it. “It is a job that generates energy,” he says, “and dedicating myself to cooking has also allowed me to travel around the world, meet incredible people and develop ideas with people from other artistic disciplines that have enriched me a lot. Every day I have a thousand fronts open, a thousand ideas …, but I have been able to build my way of working with the people I love and feel that I decide where I want to go. That is a privilege ”.
A privilege that he has achieved by taking risks such as leaving the Allard Club when he held two Michelin stars under his baton and betting on his own project, without partners and in his style. Its star restaurant responds to the concept of haute cuisine for excellence but avoids palatial luxury. Guerrero says that he "has nothing to do with it and neither do most of his guests." That is why the discreet entrance to the premises is surprising, its industrial aesthetics, the presence of the boss , with his peaked cap, officiating in the kitchen open to the dining room where his customers give their opinion for better or for worse about their dishes.
At a popular level they call him “the chef from the Salesas neighborhood” and he loves the title: “I come from a small town, so calling me a neighborhood cook is one of the best compliments they can give me,” he says. In this Madrid area are located his creative workshop, his bi-star restaurant and almost around the corner DSpeak, that other place that opened in 2019, which had to close only six months later due to the pandemic and is back in active. In it he has come up with a menu again, something he has not done since 2006 when he opted for the tasting menu, and to define it he categorically rejects terms such as second brand or casual cuisine. “At DStage you are marked by a concept, a story and a message, but as a cook you have many more needs. DSpeak is an independent restaurant, it is a family, it is the brother but it has its own identity, "he explains about the most recent bet.
You believe Diego Guerrero and his team, they don't sell smoke, they don't make their work sacred but they elevate it," team music ”, he says about the coordinated symphony seen in his kitchen. Later, when it's time to disconnect, the chef grabs onto his guitar, draws, writes or surfs when he can escape to the sea that he misses so much. In the end, the kitchen has allowed him to combine all that he liked when he was looking for a job: making art with his dishes, literature to explain them and music for the palate of his clients. It remains to touch the third star : "It is healthy to aspire to them but not that they determine your work or the message you want to convey."