Military style or military style in cinema and life is not only details like shoulder straps, epaulettes or patch pockets, but rather a mood. It is created primarily by protective shades: khaki, swamp green or sand colors. This direction gained its distribution after the end of the First World War. The reason was rather utilitarian, since all clothing factories in wartime focused on the army, and civilian clothing practically ceased to be produced, therefore, after its completion, people prefer affordable and inexpensive military clothing, because. it was very, very difficult to buy civilian clothes.
Military style entered the catwalks in the 60s of the twentieth century and became a way of protesting against military policy, one of the first this stylistic direction was supported by such fashion houses as Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton.
Still from “Coco before Chanel”
We invite you to recall popular items of clothing that began their journey as clothing for the military and lit up in the movies.
This type of clothing got its usual name from the name of the British Earl James Thomas Bradnell, Lord Cardigan. During the Crimean War of 1854, during the Battle of Balaklava, Bradnell allegedly wore a jacket without a collar under his uniform to keep warm, but still look neat. Also, his soldiers began to wear this piece of clothing. When the war was over, the soldiers began to name the knitted jacket after Count – cardigan.
The cardigan was popularized by French fashion designer Coco Chanel. She allegedly “hated how men's tight-collared sweaters ruined her hair when she pulled them over her head,” so she began wearing a cardigan. Various interpretations of the cardigan over the years can be traced in the collections of this brand.
We can see this element of the wardrobe in the movie “Coco before Chanel” with Audrey Tautou in the title role.
Still from “Coco before Chanel”
Burberry Trench Coat
It is interesting that the fashion house Burberry, which produced clothing for travelers and hunters, produced the Tielocken Coat for officers in the 1890s, and by 1901 the company had become the official supplier of outerwear to the British Army .
During the First World War, Burberry's was the official supplier of gabardine raincoats for officers of the British Royal Corps. The Tielocken model began to be called a trench coat from the English word trench – a trench, a trench.
The soldiers liked the Burberry trench coat so much that it was actively worn in peacetime, so it became exclusively civilian clothing. By the 60s, the trench coat had already managed to light up in the films “Casablanca” and “Breakfast at Tiffany's”.
See also: Fashion and cinema: 5 legendary dresses by Hubert de Givenchy.
Still from Breakfast at Tiffany's
Screenshot from Breakfast at Tiffany's
M-65 Jacket or Bomber Jacket
“American”, or M-65, – another military jacket that hasn't changed much since the Vietnam War.
The M-65 was already intended for soldiers sent to Vietnam with its rainy climate and harsh foothill conditions. Therefore, the design was developed as much as possible so as to protect the soldier from the rain. The jacket was positioned as a “field jacket for cold weather”.
After the war, it gained wide popularity in everyday life because of its stylish look and practicality. A special peak of popularity came after it was used in the films “Rocky” and “Taxi Driver”. Also M-65 was worn by Kate Moss.
Still from “Rocky”
Still from “Taxi Driver”
A-2 – This is an American military flight jacket originally designed for World War II USAF pilots. It is this jacket that is the progenitor of modern stylish leather jackets and bombers. The A-2 was designed to protect pilots from the weather, to keep them warm.
We can replace this jacket in films with Tom Cruise in the 1986 film Top Gun and the hero played by Brad Pitt in the film “The Allies”.
Movie poster “Top Gun”
Frame from the film “Allies”
Overcoat or double-breasted coat
Warm thin wool coat – important wardrobe item. This piece of outerwear can be worn with anything and look stylish at the same time, but the classic wool coat with lapels also took its beginnings from army outerwear, better known as an overcoat.
Initially, it was a uniform coat of a soldier. The design of the item included pleats on the back, a tab, a double-breasted cut, large buttons in two rows and a turn-down collar. Today such a coat – classic.
We can see this coat on Adriana Brody in the movie The Pianist.
Still from the film “Pianist”
Still from “The Pianist”
The vest is one of the most popular types of clothing and has long been used by designers and fashionistas to create stylish looks. Initially, appearing around the 17th century. as a uniform for sailors, this type of clothing belonged exclusively to men's wardrobe.
The vest appears in women's fashion at the beginning of the 20th century, with the light hand of the legendary Coco Chanel. After a vacation in Normandy, the world fashion trendsetter brought home an innovation that has forever entered the world of the fashion industry.
After Coco, the striped trend is used in their glamorous adventurous collections by Gauthier, Yves Saint Laurent, and other eminent fashion designers. Celebrities who wore striped shirts are Merlin Monroe, Brigitte Bardot, Audrey Hepburn, Jean Seberg, Jacqueline Kennedy.
In the movie, we can see this fashionable wardrobe item in the film “French Kiss” on the heroine Meg Ryan, in film “Two for the Road” in 1967 on Audrey Hepburn and in the film “Coco before Chanel” on Audrey Tautou.
Still from “French Kiss”
Still from the movie “Two on the road”
Still from the movie “Coco before Chanel”
Actually, military style – this is an attempt to make military clothing civilian, and so that there would be no war at all, right?
Let's also remember the best images of Meg Ryan, which definitely deserve your attention!